Knot strength is key to using the right knot. I have found the strength of each knot so you can see what would be the right choice for each part of your rappelling. I will start with the family of figure eights. The regular Figure Eight can hold a weight of 8,640 lbs., Figure Eight on a Bight holds 8,560 lbs., Figure Eight follow through holds 8,640 lbs., and the Double Loop Figure Eight holds the most at 8,820 lbs. Now for the Double Fisherman's knot will hold 8,440 lbs and the Water Knot holds 3,060 lbs. Though if you do a Water Knot-Double Loop it can hold 12,920lbs.! These are all the primary knots that you can use but some are a lot stronger than others.
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